The Craven Arms at Appletreewick (From Craven Herald)

The Craven Arms at Appletreewick

3:11pm Thursday 22nd February 2007 in Leisure By A Craven Herald reader

APPLETREEWICK'S associations - to my mind - were not the happiest.

A decade ago, I had led a group of Southerners for a study week at the delightful Diocesan Conference House, when little had pleased them. Hills (too steep) coach (too big-for the roads) food (too much) weather (too awful)- it might have been late April but it snowed heavily upon us - a constant litany of whinging.

So, I returned to Appletreewick somewhat warily, only to stumble into the warm and cosy embrace of The Craven Arms, one unusually clement February day.

First came an astonishing view of the newly-constructed cruck barn function room - a barn most tastefully and seamlessly added in recent times, awaiting its thatched roof, but beautifully crafted (was there ever workmanship like this in Welwyn Garden City?).

Then into the cosy bars, and anteroom, each with a roaring fire in three differing Victorian fireplaces.

The soft glow of the gas-lamps added to the ambience; it clearly augured well for what we had originally decided would be a light repast, not a full-blown lunch.

Quickly divesting our selves of outer garments, then sweaters, we saw reasonably-priced set meals on the table menus, with that highly-commendable but rare feature of children's portions cooked to order (priced at £4.25) like scampi or lasagne rather than the usual fare of fish-fingers amd baked beans.

The filled jacket potatoes at £4.75 upwards seemed a shade expensive but being lured to an amazing specials board proved to be our undoing for all our favourites were there, plus some unexpected treats.

All this was offered with a wide variety of locally-brewed Folly Ales, (hot) Elliott's Mulled Wine and well-priced wines by both bottle and by glass.

The usual favourites were numbered amongst the specials with scampi and chips, gammon steak, lamb-shank (so tasty as to elicit the comment from a nearby table that such quality meat had not come from a supermarket) sausage and mash, and the like, all served piping hot, attractively presented and economically priced, with starters at £3.50 and mains from £7.50 to £10.50.

Hot sandwiches at £4.75 and roasted pepper and goats cheese ciabatta at £5.75 were also on offer but a room of older citizens clearly out for lunch persuaded us down the path to gluttony.

First came the tureen full of tasty, small mushrooms served in a toothsome sauce (perhaps a tad too much garlic?) clearly laced with alcohol and smothered in a cheese sauce with good bread - a sure winner with me - whilst my wife saved herself for her main course of confit of duck which she did enjoy although she felt that it was just a little too crisp.

My queenie scallops with good bacon were startlingly good, served in a cheese sauce with real bite and it was hardly surprising that we did scant justice to excellent chips and correctly-cooked vegetables.

The food seemed to be locally sourced, my scallops even had the grit of Morecambe Bay with them, whilst a neighbour expressed supreme satisfaction over a lemon sole (at £10.50) which looked, and according to her was, delicious.

The generous quantity of chips was sadly put aside (the golden retriever watching us with some anxiety through the pub window eventually received them as a reward for patience unlike one of his predecessors who scoffed part of the leather rear-seat whilst getting bored with those who lunch lengthily).

We gazed in awe at the sweets enumerated as specials, again reasonably priced about £3/£4. Sticky toffee pudding might have been our undoing, with several really good alternatives, but discretion overcame us and we shared a delightful chocolate brownie with good ice cream; the former just exploded in the mouth, with it sublime flavour.

This really is a venue you must visit, and not for the first time, I wondered about the juxtaposition of The New Inn just down the road (with its smoking-ban well ahead of its time) and this cosy pub on whose wall Sir William Craven beamed down upon the diners.

Mind you, methinks his waistcoat is a little tight but his smile reflected my bill of a scant £32.10 for two, without drinks. Another tip. Omit breakfast and energetically walk from Bolton Abbey to this lunch spot.

Philip Johnston