The Stirk House, Gisburn (From Craven Herald)

The Stirk House, Gisburn

10:59am Friday 28th March 2008

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What an Easter weekend! Atrocious weather, gloomy financial forecasts - but our gloom was lifted by the arrival of a precious grand-daughter. Clearly this was a case for pushing out the boat, with a culinary treat to celebrate such an auspicious event.

The Stirk House, which sits beside the A59 just beyond Gisburn, was only known to us through its wedding receptions and Rotary dinners, so we anticipated a somewhat different culinary event, which it proved to be.

The restaurant is located in the old manor-house, stolidly built - reputedly with stone from Sawley Abbey, destroyed at The Reformation - but with a fine frontage and a delightful restaurant setting with its mullioned windows, excellently proportioned plaster ceiling and contemporary touches.

Outstanding flower arrangements, warm curtains, good napery and burnished wooden floors all add to the ambience. Only the melange of modern music struck a jarring note!

The service was both courteous and prompt, from the coats being taken at reception by the fire, to commendable attention at table.

Starters were unusual, around £4.50 to £5, with the possibility of having each as a main course at £8 or so.

I opted for the duck parfait, which was, to my taste, a little bland, but was redeemed by a stunning variety of breads. The walnut and date bread was particularly good. There was wifely enthusiasm for her baked goat's cheese in a filo case, accompanied by herbs and pine kernels.

Wine is not cheap, but this is a quality restaurant and we were more than satisfied with a Chilean Merlot at £15 a bottle; wine pouring was deft and unobtrusive.

Main courses range through the usual chickens and steaks to rainbow trout at £11.75 and popular favourites like guinea-fowl, a dish of lambs' livers and duck in the £15 range. With such choices, I sought advice and was not disappointed. Chump of Pendle lamb was suggested, arriving - cooked as requested - with a toothsome gravy, spring cabbage and a good, roast potato.

My wife had the interesting experience, as a lover of duck, in having it served in a distinctive way; a duck's leg, mostly rich meat but offset with spring rhubarb cooked in red wine, which evinced much laudatory comment, the only reservation being the accompanying rosti which was on the salty side. Not one to pass up good sweets, she then proceeded to demolish a summer fruit brulee whilst I resorted to an excellent portion of sticky toffee pudding with caramel sauce and ice-cream; again dates lifted this traditional sweet above the normal variety.

Our bill for three courses for two (without drinks) came to £47.50 and it was with some alarm I noted the wifely comment "that we must return to sample a number of things worth trying".

From someone whose excellent culinary skills had been all too evident over Easter, this was high praise indeed.

A return jaunt to The Stirk House is clearly on the cards.

Philip Johnston

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