Climbers give Castleberg a new lease of life (From Craven Herald)

Climbers give Castleberg a new lease of life

6:40pm Thursday 9th July 2009 in

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Settle’s Castleberg Rock – which was out of bounds just a few months ago because of falling debris – is enjoying a renaissance.

The ancient landmark was once a magnet for visiting Victorians who travelled by train to picnic under the limestone feature. At one time a fair was held there.

More recently, the rock has been regarded as little more than a backdrop to the town and a pleasant footpath walk.

But in spring, the site was deemed unsafe by Settle Town Council after several reports of rockfalls, probably caused by hard winters and general weathering.

In March, the town council had no alternative but to close the footpath to everyone except the person who tended the flagpole. However, salvation came less than a month later when Coun David Heather was approached by the British Mountaineering Council (BMC). It offered to make the rock face safe in exchange for being allowed to use it for climbs.

“It was a great opportunity to have Castleberg Rock made safe and its footpaths reopened to the public while, at the same time, creating a major tourist feature for the town and a facility for climbers,” said Coun Heather.

Now, just two months later, the BMC has cleared away the loose rock – amounting to seven tonnes – picked up litter, cleared away self-seeded saplings and other unwanted vegetation and created 23 separate climbs along the rock face using stainless steel fastenings, well out of reach of children.

“There were originally going to be 22 climbs because one spot was regarded too difficult,” said Coun Heather. “That was until a 20-year-old climbed up that same spot and it was decided to include it. It has since been named Scary Mary.”

Dave Musgrove, former president of the BMC, said the situation in Settle was unusual, with the collaboration of the climbing fraternity and the local authority, but it had created a feature which he believed would be well used.

“The climb will suit medium-grade climbers and will present a challenge because of its features,” said Mr Musgrove.

“There is one particularly difficult bit and I am sure it will be very popular. Climbing has got very popular in the area, particularly at Giggleswick Scar and Foredale Quarry where we have done a lot of work in the past.

“This one at Settle will be a popular addition and will attract people from all over. It is also west facing, so it will be available all year when other climbs are affected by the weather.”

All the climbs are being sponsored by local organisations and businesses and apt names are being put to them. There is the Olde Naked Man climb, while others are linked to Castleberg Outdoor Sports shop, the town hall, The Three Peaks and the Settle-Carlisle railway line Sponsors have been asked for a small donation of £50 for The Yorkshire Bolt Fund, which facilitates climbing in the area.

The money will go towards the cost of the equipment used and, in particular, steel bolts and anchors that have been secured into the rock face. In exchange for the donation, the names given to each climb will remain in perpetuity.

The climbs will be identified in future climbing guide books and are expected to become as popular with the climbing fraternity as other venues nationally and in France and Spain.

There is to be an official launch on Saturday between noon and 3pm when Dave Turnbull, chief executive of the BMC, will “open” the rock for climbers The BMC will be taking small groups of people from the Talbot Arms pub to the rock and there will be experienced climbers demonstrating the facility.

“It really is fantastic that the BMC has been able to do this and I am sure it will be a great asset to the town,” said Coun Heather.

The footpath will officially be open again to the public from Saturday.