Former Skipton school teacher Richard Whinray chose a subject close to his heart for his first book – a biography of his grandfather, Tot Lord. Tot has been described variously as “one of the Yorkshire Dales’ greatest characters”, “one of Settle’s greatest citizens” and “as much a part of Settle as Castleberg Rock itself!”. His colourful and eventful life had a marked impression upon the town of his birth and upon the Yorkshire Dales, a place he loved. Richard is working on a second book, the Tot Lord Town Trail, which will help visitors discover about the history of Settle, by looking at buildings and places associated with Tot. Here, using the biography, we chart some of Tot’s life.

Tot was born in a humble Upper Settle cottage on May 24 1899 – Empire Day. Early records show that he was descended from Littondale farming stock – those before him had kept sheep on behalf of the Monks of Fountains Abbey as early as the 15th century. Other documents show that one or more of his ancestors may have fought at the Battle of Flodden Field on September 9 1513 as part of Lord Clifford’s Craven contingent.

Tot’s more immediate ancestors, John and Mary Lord, arrived in Settle about the year 1800, setting up home in Upper Settle – the oldest part of Settle – with its tangle of narrow streets and old cottages.

And it was in one of these old Upper Settle cottages that their great, great grandson Tom – or Tot as he would later become known – was born.

He was a pupil at Settle National School and developed a love for collecting and for exploring the hills, dales and caves of Craven.

Childhood ended abruptly when, at 15-years-old, Tot, with his father’s gun tucked safely under his arm, ran away from home, lied about his age and was enlisted into the local 12th Duke of Wellington’s Regiment.

Nine months later he was celebrating his 16th birthday in the trenches during the First World War. His service record shows that the young lad saw action at the Battle of Aubers Ridge and also at Loos and Ypres.

Following the war, Tot explored most of the caves in Craven. He even discovered one of his own which he imaginatively called “Lord’s Hole”!

Tot was also an enthusiastic member of the British Speological Association, founded by underground rival, Eli Simpson.

In 1935, following his involvement in an extremely difficult cave rescue at Gingling Hole, near Stainforth, Tot took part in discussions which resulted in him becoming a founder member of the Cave Rescue Organisation – the first of its kind in the world. He served the organisation as a rescue warden from 1935 to 1945. He later recalled: “I took part in many difficult and strenuous rescues.” Tot also continued to seek out all that he could about Craven’s ancient past. His collection of bones and other cave artefacts were displayed in his curiously-named Pig Yard Club Museum.

Sir Arthur Keith, the great anthropologist, remarked that Tot was a pioneer in what he had done for the pre-histories of his Craven homeland. Tot’s proudest professional moment came in 1964 when the Karst Symposium met in Settle following the Geographical Congress in London. Geographers from all over the world descended en masse on the Pig Yard Club Museum. On display were the bones of ancient creatures, including elephant, rhinoceros and hippopotamus, animals which once populated the hills and dales of an ancient Craven.

The visitors could also view the remains of a cannibal who once roamed the hills above Settle. He used to hide inside Jubilee Cave, keeping watch for the odd passer- by – the plumper the better!

The bones of an Ingleborough woman, discovered in a limestone pavement at Selside, were in stark contrast to the bones of a local giant who stood at 8ft 6ins tall! The museum also had the original Settle Market Charter of 1249 and the Fountains Abbey Stock Book for the 15th century. Tot’s 15th century Littondale ancestors were probably named within its pages. One ancestor, John Knolle, fought at the famous Battle of Flodden on September 9 1513 and even took along his own armoured horse.

Tot also found time to become a leading public servant. He was the vice-chairman of Settle Rural District Council, vice-chairman of the Craven Water Board, a member of the Council for the Preservation of Rural England, a member of Settle Parish Council and a governor of Settle High School.

A Mr Waring, of Sedbergh Rural District Council, remarked that Tot was particularly well-known and respected for his knowledge of the Yorkshire Dales.

When, at a meeting of the Yorkshire Dales Joint Committee in the period leading up to the formation of the Yorkshire Dales National Park, Tot attracted the support of many when he exclaimed: “If the Yorkshire Dales National Park is simply going to be run by people sat by the firesides over in Leeds, then it will never work. What it needs is local people with local knowledge.”

Matching Tot’s distinctive personality was his distinctive appearance. Ian Plant, a reporter for The Dalesman magazine and later editor of the Craven Herald, wrote: “Tot cut an imposing figure…his gamekeeper image, augmented by his frequent appearances in plus- fours accompanied by a tweed jacket and hat, was well-known in almost every social circle in town.”

In his later years, Tot’s progress through the town of his birth would most likely start from his greengrocer’s shop at the top end of Cheapside, with its rich aroma of fruit and vegetables. Along the way there would be many a pause for a spot of conversation.

A popular destination would often be Shepherd and Walker’s, the local chemist. Here, Tot, who was by now heavily involved in local politics, would settle himself for a lengthy chat with friend and fellow councillor Harold Walker. Usually they would discuss council affairs, but perhaps from time to time their conversation would have turned to Tot’s favourite subject: times gone by, distant times gone by. l “Tot Lord – One of the Yorkshire Dales Greatest Characters” is available in various local outlets and can also be ordered directly from rwhinray@yahoo.co.uk.

It is illustrated by Tot’s great-granddaughter, Sarah Kate Yeadon.