I'VE never been out in Barnoldswick before, so was quite excited when the editor suggested trying Jesters Restaurant on Church Street - venturing into pastures new and all that.

Not knowing the place, it was slightly disconcerting to arrive and find the front door barricaded and bolted: the actual entrance is down a side alley. This leads to a cosy set of rooms with a slight boudoir' feel, thanks to scarlet walls, gauzy curtains between rooms, and an unsettlingly high temperature.

The underlying theme of Jesters' menu could perhaps be described as classic English. Starters included vegetable and mustard soup, tomato salad, chicken liver pate, and cheese tart, mostly around £4-£5. The choice of main courses was pretty extensive: steak in various guises, poultry, beef, lamb and various fish dishes. Many dishes seemed to involve a rich sauce of some kind. Vegetarians are also catered for, with at least four options to choose from. Prices are around £10-£13.

My husband went for the pat with home-made onion chutney (£4.95). I wanted something light and chose the tomato and fresh parmesan salad (£4.20). The pat was good, its strong flavour mixing well with Mother's Pride'-style toasted fingers and the chutney. My salad was fresh and tasty, although the croutons were unexpected and probably surplus to requirements.

Croutons also appeared with my main course: tagliatelle with vegetables and wild mushrooms in a tomato sauce (£9.65). On arrival, it looked a lot like a plate of soup, rather than pasta with sauce. Once I'd removed the croutons, I could see that the dish was full of fresh peppers, onions and mushrooms. Unfortunately, I couldn't really taste these good ingredients through the sweet tomato sauce, and the tagliatelle itself was drowned.

My husband fared better with his guinea fowl (£10.75), which was moist and perfectly cooked. The sauce that dressed the bird and accompanying roast potatoes was full of flavour, although somewhat overbearing by the end. We both enjoyed the vegetables, even though the broccoli and cauliflower really didn't need the creamy sauce.

At least the mange tout came refreshingly unadorned and had some bite. Maybe less would be more with the sauces?

There was a large party dining that evening, and the waitresses were inevitably slowed down. While waiting to order dessert and coffee, we people-watched. It was busy for a mid-week night: Jesters certainly seems to be a popular venue for locals of all ages. There appeared to be quite a few regulars, which is usually a good sign. The chef came out of the kitchen after a while and sat down for a chat with customers, a relaxed and friendly touch.

As ever, I was the only one of us greedy enough to brave dessert. The white and dark chocolate mousse (£3.75) did the job nicely, although didn't need the cream sauce. The coffee came with cream too: an embarrassment of richness?

Mary Arber