IT is accepted wisdom not to return to places where one has had a memorable meal or, say, an enjoyable hotel holiday, lest the experience on the second occasion disappoints.

So it was with some trepidation that we returned to Aeolos in Skipton, having sampled the excellent fare when it was No 1 Cavendish Street some four years ago. Rather strangely, we had prepared ourselves by going to see Ratatoutille, the hilarious comedy about a rat-turned chef which also features - and savages - a restaurant critic who does not always get it right!

The first surprise was the infinite improvement in decor, with its genuine attempt to convince us we were in a Greek taverna (not easy in a solid Victorian house). The second was that there were no other diners, the reason being Hallowe'en with all Skiptonians apparently involved in "trick and treating". An empty restaurant, on two floors to boot, is as demanding for its proprietors as an over-full one, so it is pleasing to report that service was exceptional without being over-pressurised and we had no reason to suppose that this would not be the case on a crowded weekend visit.

Given an extensive wine list (ranging from £9.95 to £16.50) it was good to find that we were gently (and correctly) steered towards a Kretikos white wine from Crete, which at £9.95 a bottle was both crisp and delectable. Bread, butter and iced water were immediately presented, while a quick perusal of a long menu - which also features "international" food - left us in no doubt that warnings about the consumption of red meat and too much wine were here thrown to the winds!

I started with mussels cooked in a white ouzo sauce, which could be tasted - a treat indeed and not a small portion - while my wife had those tasty little parcels of spinach and feta, spanakopita. It was served with a little vegetable adornment rather than those dire salads, taken from plastic buckets, as served elsewhere.

Starters are priced from £4.50 to £6 and both they and the page of vegetarian dishes would more than satisfy those of that inclination. Fortunately, explanations in English explain the more obscure Greek items - I would have been hard pressed to render kolohithohaffertes as deep-fried courgette balls.

My wife's choice of kleftiko, a huge portion of slow-cooked lamb was both tender and filling, while my kokinisto was a pleasant surprise - chunks of tasty beef, marinaded and gently cooked in a toothsome sauce with pasta on the side, plus parmesan cheese.

Mains are between £12 and £15 and diners could clearly eat here for some time before exhausting their choice. Sweets are in the range of £2.80 to £3.20 and again include Greek alternatives such as samali (semolina cake with ice-cream), kaklava and kataifi. Madam plumped for ice cream, but I much enjoyed the traditional warm baklava with nuts and honey, accompanied by an authentic cup of Greek coffee.

The bill came to £44 without drinks and represents good value for money, as well as bringing back happy holiday memories of Greek cuisine eaten in shady, vine-covered bowers with a blazing sun and baggy-trousered waiters, Greek music tinkling in the background.

The team of three cooks work hard here to give you that experience in Cavendish Street, but you will have to be there on New Year's Eve if you wish to indulge in the throwing of plates!

And I have revised my ideas about going back to old haunts.

Philip Johnston