Jonathan Smith runs Where2walk, a walking company in the Yorkshire Dales. Jonathan has written his own book, the Dales 30 which details the highest mountains in the Dales. He also runs one-day navigation courses for beginners and intermediates. Join his Learn a Skill, Climb a Hill weekends in the Dales. To find out more details on any of the above visit his website,

THIS is an unusual walk for the moors as there are two sharp (albeit short) climbs to two distinct hill tops. The village of Hawnby, near Helmsley makes for an excellent base (particularly if the pub is open).

Hawnby is a small village north of Helmsley on the western edge of the North York Moors. It is hidden away on the River Rye a few miles off the busy B1257. Before setting off on the walk head west for 400 metres and visit All Saints Church. Originally built in the 12th century it was rebuilt in the 14th century having been destroyed by the Scots. It is beautifully situated and has two bells set in an open bell turret.

Return to the centre of Hawnby and take to a path heading north up steep hillside. Keeping the woods to your right continue up the path as it climbs the broad shoulder of Hawnby Hill. The hill is like an upturned boat so the steep initial slopes do flatten out and soon the walking becomes easier and very enjoyable. The path passes a neat conical cairn before dropping steeply off the northern edge. The views ahead are in to the heart of moorland country, whereas to the right the bulk of Easterside Hill (slightly higher than Hawnby) is a reminder of things to come.

On arrival at a quiet road at the foot of Hawnby Hill there is a choice of paths. Do not take the obvious lane straight ahead and up hill but the lane to your right to Sportsmans Hall. However before arriving at the hall take the footpath to the left and after a short uphill drops down to cross Ladhill Beck over a footbridge. The large aerial to the north is Bilsdale Transmitter, more than 1,000 feet high and one of the most powerful in the country. After crossing the bridge climb east out of the valley to arrive directly north of the second hill of the day, Easterside. There are no official routes up Easterside Hill but this is Open Access land and it is definitely worth the climb. The main footpath skirts the fell on its eastern side but leave this after you cross the northern spur of Eaterside Hill.

A faint track heads directly up the fell but it is intermittent so just strike south and uphill, Easterside is not high and after a steep climb you will soon be on the summit plateau. It is a wonderful place, full of interest and great views. It is almost a mirror image of Hawnby Hill. The trig that apparently used to sit on the summit has disappeared and aside from a cairn and a multitude of bird feeders it is completely barren. From the cairn carry on south and as the hill starts to descend steeply join an excellent path that emerges from your left and drops down towards Hawnby. It joins the road at Easterside Farm and from here it is a pleasant walk back to Hawnby.

Fact box:

Distance: Roughly 5 miles

Height to Climb: 350m (1,150 feet)

Start: SE 542898. Park on the road near the central cross roads of Hawnby.

Difficulty: Medium. Rolling countryside with 2 steep climbs but on good paths or lanes.

Refreshments: The Owl (pub/hotel) is advertised as now open, newly renovated in Hawnby but it was not open when I visited recently. Helmsley is only a few miles away.

Be Prepared: The route description and sketch map only provide a guide to the walk. You must take out and be able to read a map (O/S Explorer OL26) and in cloudy/misty conditions a compass. You must also wear the correct clothing and footwear for the outdoors. Whilst every effort is made to provide accurate information, walkers head out at their own risk.

Please observe the Countryside Code and park sensibly.